Summer 2024 - Five-Day Hike in Børgefjell

In the summer of 2024, my brother and I went on a five day hike in Børgefjell.

Børgefjell National Park is one of Norway's last true wilderness areas. Located in Nordland and Trøndelag, it spans vast mountain plateaus, deep valleys, and pristine lakes. Established in 1963, it is known for its remote and rugged terrain, offering adventurers a unique opportunity to connect with untouched nature. The park is home to a variety of wildlife as well.

Man, the drive from Oslo to Børgefjell is long! When you arrive in Trondheim, it is still over four hours left to drive. The parking area we found wasn’t too big, but I guess that’s because Børgefjell isn’t as popular as some of the other national parks in southeastern Norway. This is one of the few true wilderness areas left in Norway. There are hardly any bridges, marked trails, or cabins, so you really feel like you’re stepping into the wild.

BTW. The images here are not taken with analogue cameras, just my phone!

The Hiking Route

The map below shows the route we took. The first day was quite easy, it is always good to with a nice way to ease into the hike. It gave us a chance to get our legs moving and fall into the rhythm of setting up and breaking down camp. This was especially helpful as we were carrying not just our gear but also supplies for the two Alaskan huskies which needs to be brought as well.

Day 2 - Sandy beaches

The second day was much tougher, with a climb from 345 meters above sea level to 652 meters. The weather was quite warm, making it a challenging day for both us and the dogs. We stopped often to hydrate and let the dogs cool off in small streams. The steady incline was worth it when we finally arrived at one of the most stunning places I’ve ever seen in the mountains: a sandy beach by a crystal-clear mountain lake, Jengeskardvatnet. Seeing a beach at 65 degrees north felt unbelivable.

We spent two nights at this amazing location. The lake provided excellent fishing, and the surrounding landscape was perfect for exploring. One afternoon, we climbed a nearby peak to try and get cellphone coverage—no luck. Keep in mind that there’s virtually no cellphone coverage in Børgefjell, so bringing a device like a Garmin InReach is essential for safety, especially if you’re hiking solo.

Trout and Mosquitoes

One of the highlights of our time there was catching trout in the lake. We fried the fresh fish in a pan with a generous amount of butter! There’s no better way to enjoy fresh trout in the wilderness. Sitting by the lake, eating freshly caught trout while surrounded by the raw beauty of nature, listening to the waves hit the beach was really nice. Being forced to not use our phones made for a great time together as well.

Of course, no summer trip to northern Norway is complete without battling mosquitoes. They were manageable with a good 50% DEET-based repellent, but they were still a nuisance at times. The key is to stay covered and keep your tent zipped up tight. Also remember that the mosquitoes can sting evern trough thick wool socks. Some repellent for the dogs as well can be nice to bring.

Day 4 - A Change in Weather

On the fourth day, the sunny weather was replaced by heavy rain and chilling winds as we decided to move to Bleikarvatnet. This made for a round trip with a new location and possibly even better fishing. The temperature dropped dramatically, and the rain made everything slick and difficult to navigate. We decided to set up camp as fast as possible and spent most of the day huddled in our tents while listening to the rain. The dogs didn’t seem to mind, though—they curled up in their sleeping spots and dozed off.

Pro tip: If you’re hiking in the mountains above the treeline, always bring a stick and a tarp. It makes a huge difference when you need a dry place to sit, cook, or just take a break during bad weather.

Day 5 - Fog and Rivers

The final day of our hike was one of the most physically challenging. The fog was so thick that visibility was limited to just 50 meters. Navigating in these conditions required extra caution, as even a small mistake could lead to getting off track. We knew we’d be fine as long as we followed the valley down to the Namsen River, but the lack of visibility made the initial kilometers a bit slower due to checking the map and compass quite often.

River crossings were another challenge. The recent rain had swollen the rivers, making the crossings tricky. At one point, we had to help the dogs across by finding a spot with slower-moving water. Despite the obstacles, there was a sense of accomplishment when we made it.

Final Thoughts

Børgefjell may not have the polished trails or facilities of other national parks, but that’s exactly what makes it so special. It’s raw, remote, and incredibly rewarding. Spending these five days in Børgefjell taught me to appreciate the beauty of simplicity, the importance of preparation, and the joy of disconnecting from the modern world.

If you’re looking for a true adventure, this is the place to go. Just make sure you’re prepared for the challenges that come with hiking in such a wild and untamed environment. Happy hiking!